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Patio at my favorite place, Sunrise Cafe |
In Malaysia, I’ve made a point of staying in the suburbs of
three towns in which I’ve stayed, at least for a while. It’s been a good plan.
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Mr. and Mrs. Nu (Miss Quan) at shop |
Although, once I’d done my sight-seeing in Georgetown
(Penang) and decided it was a very livable town, I had made my reservations in
Butterworth, a much smaller town a ferry-ride away from the hubbub of the big
city. I’m glad I did that because it allowed me to ride the city bus, visit a
small local mall, eat true street food at a place behind my hotel and just talk
to the locals. I was the only Westerner in the area – except one for one day –
and that made me someone that people were drawn to.
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Food and beer copies for funeral rites. |
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Items from the Nu's shop for burning at funerals |
Same thing in Ipoh, I spent 8 days fairly far outside the
city core, in a small, very well-run hotel, ate at the food court (a collection
of street food stalls) next door and hung out at the mall two blocks away,
where there was also a grocery store. I got to see how a very familiar-looking
market in Malaysia is laid out and that they have membership cards too, etc. On
top of that, I’ve already written about the terrific two days of touring I was
treated to by my hotel owner. It was fabulous.
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Rex - Hair Stylist & more! |
In Kuala Lumpur, I stayed in the heart of Chinatown, and
even though it certainly wasn’t a suburb, it was definitely a neighborhood – a
complex combination of intense commerce and people living above their shops,
family-owned-and-operated restaurants, etc. I got a glimpse of how they live.
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Look close and you'll see my hair salon! |
Now, as I linger for weeks in Melaka, my favorite Malaysian
city, I’m immersed in a great neighborhood. Yes, I’m living in a hotel, but
it’s truly a part of the area, with local families visiting the attached cafĂ©
for family meals.
Additionally, I’m washing my own clothes at the laundromat
four doors down (where a new mother cat nurses her kittens in a box in one
corner), visiting the mini-mart every couple of days, getting my hair cut by
the local bodybuilder/hairstylist/personal trainer and being instructed by Miss
Quan (or Mrs. Nu – she goes by both names) about the traditions of Tao.
Side note here: The Chinese Tao in Malaysia (probably elsewhere too) believe that when a person passes on they need all the things with them that they would need in life. So, they burn representative cardboard items at the funeral; clothing, purses, cars, food, iPhones and even cans of beer. Mrs. Nu and her husband carry a large selection of these things in their little garage-like shop.
I’ve walked up and down the main street here a couple of
times, but today I wandered a bit into the collection of apartments behind the
hotel. It is a well-maintained group of homes and very peaceful (except on
Chinese New Year’s and the week following!)
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Rizwan, at the front desk. | |
There is so much to be gained by stepping into the real
worlds of the people who live full-time in the countries you’re visiting. Now,
I get that most people don’t have that kind of time on their hands, and they
are just looking for a beautiful, interesting place to visit and hopefully
relax. However, I’m blessed with both the time and the mission to find a place
to return to ultimately for full-fledged overseas retirement. I’ve found two
such places so far – Chiang Mai, Thailand and Melaka, Malaysia. However,
because they are so far from home, I probably won’t return to live – but I
could and that’s the point.
When I head to Latin America on the next trip, I’ll continue
staying in the neighborhoods to find just the right place and suck up some
local flavor in the meantime.
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Sweet Nisa at the cafe. |
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The residences behind my hotel - connected homes. |
Enjoy these pictures of what I’ve come to think of as my
home away from home!
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More of the crew at Sunrise Cafe - FABULOUS! |
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Lion dancer costumes in KL - Chinatown |
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Famous neighborhood restaurant - Ipoh |